I've been a hairdresser for over 20 years. I've sat with hundreds of people and helped them through some really tough moments, but nothing quite prepares you for that conversation when someone comes in knowing their hair is about to fall out.
I'm not going to pretend it's easy. For most of us, the thought of losing our hair is devastating. It's wrapped up in identity, confidence and how we present ourselves to the world. But I do know that the right advice at the right time can make a real difference — and that's what I'm here to share with you.
Before Your Hair Falls Out: Talk to Your Stylist
Your first appointment at the salon after a cancer diagnosis can feel really daunting. My advice is to ring ahead. Ask to speak to a stylist you trust so they know what's happening before you arrive. That way, you can have a proper conversation about your options without feeling put on the spot.
One thing we absolutely need to avoid is colouring your hair. No harsh chemicals can go on your scalp or hair at this stage — the risk of an allergic reaction is extremely high, and that's a risk not worth taking when your immune system is already under pressure from treatment.
If you have long hair and the thought of losing it all at once feels too much, take it in stages. Have a little more length off than usual at first. Be creative with a short crop. At some point, the scalp will release all of the hair follicles — that's just how treatment works — and at that stage, I'd recommend having the remaining hair clipped off rather than letting it fall naturally. It's less distressing, and it puts you in control.
Make sure your stylist uses sterilised clippers for this, and avoid a razor. Any small nicks to the skin can become a problem when your immune system is compromised.
Looking After Your Scalp During Treatment
Once your hair has gone, looking after your scalp properly is really important. Avoid anything harsh or heavily fragranced. Use natural products wherever you can, and make sure whatever you wash with has a moisturising or conditioning agent. You want to keep the skin soft, not dry it out.
Don't underestimate a good head massage either. Not only is it a well-deserved treat, it increases blood flow to the scalp and that supports healthy regrowth once treatment is finished. Use a natural oil like olive oil, apricot oil or Moroccan oil which all work well. If you're into aromatherapy, add a few drops of rosemary oil to a carrier oil (never neat on the skin), as rosemary is a known scalp stimulant.
Protect your scalp from the elements too. The sun can damage exposed skin, so if you're out and about in summer, a wide-brimmed hat is a really good idea. In winter, a soft, lined chemo hat will keep you warm and protect the scalp from cold air.
After Treatment: Getting Your Hair Back
When your hair starts coming back, treat it gently. It will be very fine and delicate at first — soft, a little fluffy, and sometimes different from how it was before. Some people get 'chemo curls' even if their hair was completely straight. This happens because the hair grows up and around the follicle as it comes through. Don't worry — as the hair gets longer and heavier, gravity gently pulls the curl out.
My advice for looking after new growth:
- Brush gently with a soft-bristled brush to keep things in good condition.
- Continue your scalp massage and oiling routine.
- Start using conditioner once the hair reaches about two inches in length, and rinse with cool to warm water.
- Hold off on the hair dryer and any heat tools until the hair is properly established.
- No hair colour or perming treatment for at least a year after treatment finishes.
- When you are ready for colour, always do a skin patch test 48 hours beforehand. Start with a contained service like foils rather than a full-head colour.
- Aim for a trim every 8–10 weeks once the hair reaches 3–4 inches.
Look after yourself and your scalp, and your hair will return. Take it easy.
Much love, Charley x
